This is a follow on to part 1 (here)

After my unsuccessful brake bleed the other day, I talked to some friends about the problem. I was advsied to check the routing of the lines /etc but pretty much they all thought it was air in the lines at fault. As such, I went out and bought some more fluid in order to try again.

Now, I am something of a music buff and last time I tried this job, I was wearing my iPod. This time however, I wasn’t and when I wheeled the daytona out of the garage, I heard a rubbing sound. Last time round, I’d eyeballed the rotors to see if there was any damage and I was sure there wasn’t, but something clearly wasn’t right. Time for a proper look-see so up on the paddock stands she goes.

Now, I’m sure there’s some sort of special tool to do this with but in my case, I literally only have a single adjustable wrench and a socket set that I am sure is made of silver chalk. At least, they are the only tools I have that I actually have used. But I guess I don’t really need tools; what I need is some thinking.

After another cup of coffee, I figured out all I needed was hold something reasonably steady against both the disk and fixed reference point, in my case the paddock stand, and rotate the wheel. If there it was out of true, I’d be able to rotate the wheel and have to move the something – in my case, a ruler – in and out. As I said, I’m not technical, but then I wasn’t trying to measure the deflection but see if it existed.

Sure enough, while the right rotor seems perfectly fine, the left rotor is at least 2mm off true as far as I can see. Bugger. No idea what damage it’s done to the pads, if any, yet but I’m about to call around and see what my options are for buying spares. Maybe it’s really an opportunity to do something aftermarket and a little bit trick.

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