Greenville, SC, where we stayed last night is definitely a town of two halves. The downtown is really quite pretty. There are some superb restaurants (Soby’s was where we ate and it’s in my top 10 culinary experiences in the US easily – the grits are superb). The Falls park was also a surprise. As the name suggests, it’s built around a waterfall which can be viewed from a suspension bridge. It was perfect for a brief walk after dinner and while stylishly (read dimly) lit, it was very, very safe indeed.

As I said, it’s a town of two halves and we headed to out hotel in the middle of a strip-mall. It was basic, but at least it was reasonably quiet and the shower was hot. That’s about all I can say. The free breakfast was best described as low-rate. We arrived at 9:15 only to find the waffles had run out, but we had our choice of Fruit Loops, Cinnamon Toast Crunch and four very sorry looking hard boiled eggs. Oh, and the coffee was awful too. We left quickly, but not before the first screw up of the day. I needed to lube the chain so put the keys in the ignition and lifted the rear while Marina sprayed. Ten minutes later, I’m looking for the keys everywhere so I can lock the panniers. After scouring the room, I walk outside and there they are in the ignition still. Luckily, the bike is still there (obviously) and we can finally load and leave.

The gas station across the road didn’t help matters either. We needed batteries for the intercom and we also needed to fill the bike, so Marina went inside with the credit card while I sat like a chump at the pump. Five minutes later, the humidity high, the gas still hasn’t started flowing. Turns out, there was a line up inside and it was one of those places that pretends you need to pre-pay unless you pay with a card at the pump. When she got to the front, Marina had no idea I hadn’t bought gas and had no idea how much the tank needed. After getting pissed, we put $5 in the tank and rode off.

Greenville then proceeded to go on for ever in ever-deteriorating layers of urban sprawl. Strip malls with Target and Ruby Tuesday gave way to strip malls with Wal-mart and McDonalds and eventually dollar stores and probably roadkill sandwiches. The last layer of stores was all but abandoned and dining aside, I can’t say I was sad to leave.

After crossing SC-8, the 276 started to climb and turned into a superb road. Lots of switchbacks and elevation, along with some curious camber made it very tricky, more so than the Dragon. The only downside was wood-chips on the road surface and as we got a few miles further in, we found out why. The forestry service was clearing some trees and blocking the road. We pushed to the head of the line-up (hey, we’re on a bike – I don’t want to have to find space to pass these cars and waste the twisties) and after a brief wait, the roads were just the same but this time with no wood-chips.

I must confess, I did underestimate a few corners, but thankfully, the road is both wide and double laned when I did, so I was never actually in danger. I feel more embarrassed than anything and also now stupid that I’ve also written it up and told you. Still, you’re getting full disclosure here.

Eventually, it levels out and we wind up in Brevard at 12:30, perfectly for lunch. It’s a lovely little town, wide main street and at the far end are a couple of restaurants. The Hobnob does an excellent crab Po’ boy and after coffee, we’re back on the road.

Shortly after, we reach the Pisgah national forest. The sign promises tight turns, a 7% gradient and a 4500ft gain in elevation over the next 30 miles. It doesn’t disappoint. While the road surface isn’t as good as other places, it’s still way better than Ontario. There’s a few mid-corner ridges but nothing dangerous. The downside is the weather is closing in. It’s getting colder and we pit-stop to take a few pictures like this one showing some corners (they’re all like this).

The liner is now in Marina’s jacket and all my vents closed, we set off just as the rain starts. Gentle at first, it gets heavier. The turns, like the rain aren’t letting up and while it’s only a shower, we’re now headed back downhill on a heavy bike. Fearful of the surface being greasy, I start to take things a little more slowly. Not too much, but just enough to be overtaken by the odd tortoise or sloth. The park ends too soon, but it continues to be the 276 all the way while it has it’s moments and last week would have been an excellent road back home, it now feels very pedestrian.

As we enter the Smokies again, we pick up the 19. The map says the blue ridge parkway, but I say the back road. Sadly, it’s not a back road. It’s a zoo. It proceeds through Waynesville, which seems to have it’s charms. Next, it’s Maggie Valley, which is wider but still has a sort of down-home feel to it, albeit more commercial. Sadly, you then hit Cherokee. First up is Santaland, an amusement park scarring the side of the road, then it’s the town with the high-rise hotels and casino. Eventually, you work your way through, but not before you’ve spent 30 minutes crawling in traffic and at the end you feel dirty. Still, we did stop along the way and pick up some wonderful local peaches and tomatoes, so it wasn’t all bad. Except that was my third mishap of the day. I dropped my glove waiting for Marina and spent a couple of minutes stretching for it as I was too lazy to get off the bike and get it. Marina just laughed as she came back and merely took a picture of my pain rather than help. Thanks for that.

30 minutes later, back up the 28 past Stecoah and we’re at the hotel. The place is glorious – the Appalachian Inn – and I can recommend it. For me, it’s just a stop. Now the panniers are off, we’re heading back out for a jaunt, just a small one, up a road they have around the south-west side of the smokies. Just once more. Honest.

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