How to Buy a Used Motorcycle

Questions for you

What kind of riding do you want to do?

Different bikes are good for different types of riding. If you want to go on long trips you'll want a larger, reliable bike that can comfortably cruise at highway speeds. If you're just using it for in the city or a short commute you can get away with a smaller bike. If you want a mix of highway with some light off road riding as well you may want to consider a dual sport.

Regardless of the style of motorcycle you're interested in, it's never a bad idea to start off with a smaller, lighter, less expensive bike. Make sure you can touch the ground flat footed. When buying a used bike seriously, think about having to pick the bike up, or push it up a hill by yourself.

Try not to get caught up on finding the perfect bike, but rather something that you will build your confidence on. Your first bike won't be your last.

What is your budget?

There are a lot of other costs related to motorcycling other than just buying your bike. Don't spend so much on your bike that you're not going to be able to afford to get it on the road or buy good gear. You also need to keep in mind other expenses: insurance, safety certification, registration fees, licensing costs, riding gear, parking and storage, as well as ongoing maintenance.

Older vs. newer?

A lot of the time it seems more attractive to buy an older bike because they're less expensive. Keep in mind that by the time you get an older bike into any kind of decent riding shape you may have spent the same amount of money as you would have if you had just bought a newer bike.

Basic tips

• Get to know the parts of a bike. If you don't know what the parts of a bike are it's going to be harder to know if there's anything missing.
• Check the bike during the day when it's light out so that you don't miss any cracks, missing or damaged parts or body works. It's a good idea to bring a flashlight even during the day to get a better look at dark areas under the seat, around the engine and in gas tank.
• Bring a friend with you. Preferably a friend that knows more about motorcycles than you, to remind you to ask questions and to not just hand over your cash without due diligence.
• Ask the seller to not warm the bike up prior to you arriving. A warm engine is easier to start so starting the bike from cold will give you an honest idea of how easily it starts up.
• Bring riding gear in case you can test drive it. If the seller won't let you test drive it have them a short run so you can see the brakes and gears in action.

Questions for the seller

In order to know better about the motorcycle you are interested in, prepare in advance a list of questions you want to ask the seller. You can include questions such as:

• Why are you selling it?
• How long have you had it?
• Is there anything wrong with the bike?
• Does it need anything to pass a safety certification?
• Does it have a service manual or any spare parts?
• Have you had any issues with it outside of regular maintenance?

Photo via Route 66 Classic Motorcycles

What to look for on a used motorcycle

Overall condition: Do a quick look around the bike to look for any damage. Scratches on engine cases, broken levers and turn signals. Deep, long parallel scratches on engine cases could indicate a crash. If you seesomething suspicious, do not forget to ask the seller.

Tires: Check that tires don't have cracks in the sidewall or tread. A tire that is too worn or has any cracks in the tread or sidewall won't pass a safety inspection. Replacing a single tire can cost you between $100-$300.

Also determine the age of a tire. It's easy to identify when a tire was manufactured by reading it's Tire Identification Number (TIN). You'll see the letters DOT, followed by a series of numbers and letters on the sidewall of the tire. Last digits represent the week and year of manufacture. If you don't see the complete TIN, check the other side of the tire. Keep in mind that properly stored and cared for, most street tires have a useful life in service of between six and ten years.

Wheels: Look for things like broken or bent spokes, dents, dings anything that might indicate the wheel would need to be replaced. Some of these things might not be serious problems but good to factor in any costs it might add to getting it on the road.

Drive chain/Sprockets: Check the chain for tight spots, kinks and chain stretch. Inspect sprockets for wear. The sprockets may need replacement if the teeth are jagged, hooked or worn down. If the bike is belt driven, check for cracks or worn down patches.

Brakes: Inspect the brake pads for wear. You can usually only do this on bikes with hydraulic brake pads. Neglected blake fluid changes could mean you'll be rebuilding those brakes sooner than later.

Suspension: Check the fork seals for leaks. Inspect fork legs fro bends, nicks and scratches.

Electrical: Make sure lights and switches work. Test the kill switch, turn signals, horn, high/lo beams and brake light.

Battery: It will be hard to test some of this checklist if the bike has a dead battery. Batteries are very inexpensive in relation to how crucial they are to the bike running. If a dead battery is the only issue, consider why the seller didn't charge or replace the battery prior to listing the bike?

Gas tank: Check gas tank for rust and leaks. Leaks are usually easy to spot as the paint will bubble and corrode where a hole is present. Sometimes rusty tanks can be given a second life with a tank treatment which flushes out the rust and coasts the interior of the tank.

Alignment: Straighten handlebars and sight down the font and the rear of the nike for any wheel misalignment of frame damage.

Oil leaks: Any spots where oil is building up could indicate a gasket that needs to be replaced. A lot of bikes leak oil and still run fine, but it's something that can sometimes cause problems down the line of not addressed.

Controls: Сheck if the clutch and brake level work smoothly and have proper pressure.

Bearings: If the bike doesn't have a center stand it's difficult to check the wheel bearings. If it does put it on the stand and have a friend hold the back wheel to lift the front tire in the air. Try and move the wheel front to back pushing on the axel. There shouldn't be any play. To check the steering column bearings, slowly move the handlebars back and forth while the front tire is off the ground. The movement should be smooth.

Ownership: If at all possible try and get as much information as you can about used vehicle and be sure the VIN on the ownership papers match the VIN on the motorcycle. Also make sure that the seller is the actual owner of the bike.

Service records: Ask the seller for service records if they have them. Every motorcycle has manufacturer recommended service intervals. They are usually determined by mileage or time.

Extras: There is little to no re-sale value in extras like luggage or an owners manual, but these can cost you extra money to buy new. Ask if any of these come with the bike.